Toto


“Once upon a time, a king gave a feast. And there came the most beautiful princesses of the realm. Now, a soldier, who was standing guard, saw the king’s daughter go by. She was the most beautiful one, and he immediately fell in love with her. But what could a poor soldier do when it came to the daughter of the king? Well, finally, one day, he managed to meet her, and he told her that he could no longer live without her. The princess was so impressed by his strong feelings that she said to the soldier: “If you can wait 100 days and 100 nights under my balcony, then at the end of it, I shall be yours.” Damn! The soldier immediately went there and waited one day. And two days. And ten. And then twenty. And every evening, the princess looked out of her window, but he never moved. During rain, during wind, during snow, he was always there. The bird shat on his head, and the bees stung him, but he didn’t budge. After ninety nights, he had become all dried up, all white, and the tears streamed from his eyes. He couldn’t hold them back. He no longer had the strength to sleep. All that time, the princess watched him. And on the 99th night, the soldier stood up, took his chair, and went away.”
The above tale is told in a longstanding favourite film of mine: Cinema Paradiso. I first watched it about five years ago – around age 16 – and immediately found it to be one of the purest, faithful depictions of life through the screen. It follows the story of a young Italian child named Toto in Mussolini’s Italy – whose fascination with film and cinematic experiences triggers a lifelong friendship with his local projectionist: Alfredo. The tale is told through a retrospect – exploring Toto’s memories of childhood and adolescence, which together solidify the most faithful ‘coming home’ tale I’ve seen. I’ll avoid describing its intricate details, for they are ones that should not be described but rather watched. But I will say that it’s a film that changes depending on when and how you watch it. My first encounter with it was aged 16, when I was in a somewhat similar position to its central male – Toto – as a child. Young, happily settled in a familiar city but with a desire to move elsewhere and explore. I was also surrounded by a lot of people who wanted to remain settled without venturing further. In such an environment, this place can feel like the centre of the world. That’s not necessarily a bad thing, but if you leave, your entire perception can change. Five years on from first watching this film, I stand in a position similar to Toto again, this time surpassing adolescence. Certain factors arguably still stand for me (youth most obviously), but when I watched this film recently, I saw it differently. It’s astonishing how much one feels they can grow up in such a short period, if there is a transition to a new way of living.
I often talk about experiences in London (this blog only began when I moved here) but I don’t talk often enough about home. That’s most likely because now when I return, it feels a little different. It will always be home, but things, ties and people change. Like Alfredo says in Cinema Paradiso, “You leave: a year, two years. When you come back home, everything’s changed. The thread’s broken.”  You don’t realise how strong that thread is until you leave. But discovering it to be broken isn’t necessarily a bad thing, for it shows you have developed outside a bubble that so many aren’t willing to leave, and that some return to when they don’t enjoy that feeling of the unknown. I’m only 21 now, so this feeling is likely to grow even more depending on where I end up. Right now I’m constrained to feel in tussle a little, because as a student, there’s still some form of hold on your childhood. If you’re like Toto (I definitely am), you want to see as much of the world as possible. Hopefully I will. Why am I talking about this now? Because it’s the festive season, and therefore a sentimental period (we all feel it a little!). So it’s the time to think about what you’ve achieved to this point, and what you’re striving for the following year. I have a few things on my list for 2018.
But back to the story I’ve quoted at the start of this post. It’s recounted by Alfredo as a mode of advice for teen Toto who is falling in love for the first time. At the time he reads it literally, as a result standing outside his desired lover’s window for nights on end. It grabbed my attention from the moment I first watched the film, because there was no explanation of it. ‘He almost had her, so why did he leave?!’ I wondered – sixteen and dreaming and hopeful. But what does it really mean? That question is in part answered in the film when a matured Toto gives Alfredo his interpretation following deep thought. “In one more night, the princess would have been his. But she also could not possibly have kept her promise. And it would have been terrible. He would have died. This way, however, at least for 99 days, he was living under the illusion that she was there, waiting for him.” There’s a level of sympathy for the soldier in this story, but at the same time, it’s ending feels more real. It should be viewed with hope; we’re always growing and there’s always time for more.
I wish you all a wonderful festive season ahead. With that in mind, if there’s a time to watch this film, it’s now more than ever. Sentimentality has peaked, so why not indulge yourself in a faithful depiction of growing up? If you’re around my age, I hope it brings you as much fulfilment as it does me. If you’re younger than me, you’ll view it through the mind of Toto, as you should during that developmental stage in life. Watch it a few years later and it’s likely you’ll see it differently. And if you’re older than me, you’ll probably resonate even more. I’d like to know how it sits at an age elder than mine, so drop me a message if you watch it. If you have any other film recommendations for this time of year, I’d love to know. Here’s to a Merry Christmas and hopeful New Year.
Faye .x

Why is Jacquemus my current favourite designer?


My love affair with Jacquemus has finally been cemented. Back in February, floods of images graced my Instagram feed from Paris Fashion Week, but the catchers of the eye were those grounded by a rose-coloured runway. Upon it – a juxtaposed clothing series of black, white, navy, and the odd injection of pastel pink. An inherent sense of ‘Frenchness’ made its way along the soft-hued river – models were dressed in a neutral palette and exhibited all characteristics that come with the term chic – but it had all been pushed to its boundary. It goes without saying – for Jacquemus, everything has always been a little excessive. But not to the point of deeming it unwearable. Quite the opposite, in fact. That point is becoming further hemmed with each new collection exhibited. So what was it in February that affirmed my growing love? The accessory carried by a selection of the women: le sac rond.


It eclipsed the runway. Quite literally through its shape – ‘the round bag’ is a totally apt title for an accessory that spectates an infinite circle. Join an exaggeratively curved top handle with an interlinking gold chain embellishment – and you have the heartbreaker of all bags. Not to mention the silver-plated brand logo in its bottom right corner, and a fine finishing of suede. It stormed the runway – granted, through the seductive steps of its chosen model – but she was quite clearly loving her new ally. Separation was out of the question. It resembled an extension of her hand – of which, upon seeing, you couldn’t imagine her without. It was paired with some tightly ruffled cropped trousers,  a pastel pink deconstructed jacket and a black cloche hat fitting for The Handmaid’s Tale. All in all – a strikingly surreal silhouette. And through it being so, the look brought with it a solidification of all things charming that defines a woman.
“Join an exaggeratively curved top handle with an interlinking gold chain embellishment – and you have the heartbreaker of all bags”
That claim can be made for all things under the name of Jacquemus, for everything is purely pleasant and welcoming. That is in part down to the clothing and in part down to the designer himself. Simon Porte Jacquemus solidifies his branding through his playful Instagram bio – a capitalised proclamation of his love for ‘blue and white, stripes, sun, fruit, roundness, poetry, Marseille and the 80s’. All of those modes of affection are prominent in his label – but, to the surprise of many, the Provence born 27-year-old is largely self-taught. He started showing his women’s collections back in 2009 at the age of 19, developing the standout identity of Jacquemus (his mother’s maiden name) whilst subsequently working in retail at a Comme des Garçons boutique in Paris. His label is grounded in the admiration of his mother – so it’s only natural that the ever-present themes align with her. What are they? Familial love, friendliness and playfulness, in short. The perception on how a child views things during the innocent stages of life is what you always see in some way – with overblown structures, large geometric shapes and the odd exuberant pattern. And, through the staging of a show, those child-friendly perceptions unveil like a storybook.

It goes without saying: for any designer, a strong visual narrative is key. That achievement is always sustained in Jacquemus’s collections, yet it is done so strongly that it is difficult to distinguish between what you’re seeing: clothes in reality or clothes in wonderland? “I don’t do clothes – I do stories,” Simon says. That is for certain – each season exhibits a fresh dose of womanhood, with inspiration deriving from his provincial, sun-kissed, wholly natural background. Take his latest Spring/Summer collection: “LA BOMBA”. Goodwill pulsed throughout – with golden finished models strutting along the black and white tiled floors of Paris’ famed Picasso Museum. It was the first time the acclaimed artistic landmark has staged a fashion show, and you couldn’t quite blame the halls for waiting, for Jacquemus was worth it. Clothes blended in with the setting – block, earthly-toned mini dresses screamed for the beach and the long for summer. The provincial harvest woman was upon attendees too – a black fitted v-neck and dusty brown wrap skirt were paired with ceramic, shape-based sandals. The implications? Naturalism and charm – both evident odes to the designer’s mother (which I recently compared to Van Gogh’s Girl in White painting for British Vogue). Jacquemus’s ability to breathe art into his clothing equally amounts to his stylish injections of excessiveness.  Skirt hems remained undetermined, rushing up randomly to look purposely lopsided. Hats of the year from his “MARSEILLE JE T’AIME” collection were further amplified – fitting to the narrative of the “LA BOMBA” beauty.
“Jacquemus’s ability to breathe art into his clothing equally amounts to his stylish injections of excessiveness”

And back to what I hailed at the beginning of this post: le sac rond. It comes from Jacquemus’s current Autumn/Winter collection – available to purchase from only a few stores including Dover Street Market, Browns, Matches, and the brands very own online boutique. As an accessory, it fits in with a collection founded on totally fresh Frenchness. Oversized and curved shoulders, tiny corseted waists, slightly flared cropped trousers, ruffled shirts – it was all there and it was all finished in the Parisienne’s colour palette. As for the modern take on his modes of patriotic dressing? A surrender of surrealism. It’s required for staging a story about a woman holding an overwhelming desire for a gypsy, as the designer described. But she will never fully be able to cater herself to the lifestyle, for she parades pure couture. That’s the continual sensibility of the designer’s creations, despite them being ready to wear at a more accessible price.


So to point towards the title of this post: why is Jacquemus my current favourite designer? The answer lies in the consistent characteristic of the woman he so variably portrays: charm. No matter what story she is placed in, her presence always draws one in. For men – it exhibits her as a gracious debonair. Debonair because she holds masculine traits through her impeccable yet excessively tailored clothing. And for women? It’s likely that all females will wish to experience life through her ever-changing-but-ever-charming lens. She enjoys each day with a playful perspective. Wearing the label is like wearing a cinematic mask, one that rejects any form of negativity present in our current times. Aren’t we all desiring that escape occasionally?
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This piece was written for Herbert Magazine


vingt-et-un



Transition


Evening. I’m currently sat on a train that is fast approaching London, following a trip back home to Liverpool for a short period. I’m nearly back in the capital but not quite yet – fields are continuing to occupy my window view at every possible angle, and sheer sunlight is capturing every speck of nature. The most obvious feeling of this train journey is its transition back to my London life, but it’s also a transition into my future, and the near events occurring in it. Most obviously – the final part of my life as a student.
Following on from a lengthy summer (125 days to be exact), the thought of embarking on another year of education triggers two thoughts either side of the scale: delight and dread. Delight for the reason that I have another year of delving into literature for my degree, and still have the ability to grasp onto the perks of youth. But dread for the reason that I’m a student again. Quite officially; in my Uni you have to re-enrol yourself online each September. Summer time is therefore a period during which you can either feel like you’re being thrown back into the past if you travel home, or thrown into the future if you choose to stay in the capital. I chose the latter option. Which, as a result, has lead me onto that second thought of dread upon returning.
It’s an odd feeling knowing that you’re once again starting a system you’ve been out of for four months, and since doing so have experienced an insight into complete independence. Independence does stand whilst you’re at University, but the events consuming my summer made me feel like I’d transitioned into adult life. My recent months involved interning at Dazed & Confused and British Vogue full time, freelance writing, shadowing the work of successful individuals, and at any break in-between, filling in the hours with my job. There was also the addition of spending ten days in Paris, half of which I was alone – an act that baffled most people I told bar one or two. But I couldn’t recommend doing it more. I never thought of it as a lonely thing, for Paris is a city where – if you’re a creative person – you need to spend time alone there to delve into every little aspect of its sublimity and art. That informs your perception on creation, and it did for me. Thinking about and studying things alone is what forms a personal voice on something. The result can be a blessing or a curse, but it’s nonetheless a voice.
And that idea is a basic requirement for anything one does if they’re creative. How you see somewhere, how you see something, how you see someone – you naturally filter these things into what you create – and for me, that’s writing. It’s rather fitting to the event that highlighted my summer: having a piece of mine published by British Vogue. I could write and write about how elated I felt when it happened – I was on cloud nine. But I’ll explain the piece briefly. I chose to write about fashion in ‘Blow-Up’ – a sixties cult classic film and, since the start of the year, a new favourite of mine. The reason it’s such a good film is because it highlights the entire point of being an artist: the search for meaning. The artist in the film is in the form of a photographer, who struggles to find the real meaning of his work, complicated following his apparent witness of a murder. But the film is inconclusive about the main events that go on. It’s stylised and shown through a lens of sophistication, but you never really know what’s real and what’s not. It’s infused with surreal touches that undermine the main crime and the reality surrounding it. And in that way, the film almost doesn’t seem fictional – for it’s the most accurate depiction of how artists perceive people and things in life. That’s why the creative industry appeals to me – there’s no concrete answer or opinion. You’re always trying to solidify your own.
I’ve been a lot more absent on this blog this summer than I intended to be. But I’ve been writing a lot and thinking about how I want to use this platform over the next year. People have certain stereotypes when it comes to fashion blogs, but I don’t feel like I fall into many of them. I don’t do sponsorship, I don’t limit my posts to simply showing my outfit. There’s nothing wrong with either – I just prefer to write about whatever is on my mind. But I suppose that’s the beauty of having a blog – if you’re not guided by what people expect and present things your way, you can create something pretty amazing. So I’m proud of what having this blog has made me accomplish in the past two years. It has transitioned thoughts and creativity from being just in my mind to being out there. I look forward to pulling my future thoughts together over the next year as I have that final transition in Uni and youth. But for now – enjoy the photos below! I just had 6 inches chopped off my hair so I’m now sat in the ‘not short but not long’ hairstyle club. Or, as I like to think: the Anna Karina club. And I do like it. Who knows – I may have even moved into the ‘bob’ club by the time I graduate! Anything can happen in a year.


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