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Nouvelle Vague

I enjoy French New Wave cinema. My process of watching such goes something like this: I lie alone in a room of darkness (save a single screen), and for a few hours, allow my mind to dissect the nuances of an honest story. It’s like reading a great novel, but the reduced time consumption triggers a rapid stimulation of realism. Ironically, I’m watching a film, so I’m dissecting something completely fictional, but the subject matter never fails to provoke a raw sensation in my mind. That’s because the material of the movement isn’t donned with false filters – there was a conscious break from the established cinematic paradigm which had conceived a barrier between film and viewer. Let’s say a transparent barrier, the passing of which resulted in one’s transition to an alternative setting. And for a short period, the subjected conditions of their reality would be clouded. That barrier has long been present – still present – in film, and nothing is wrong with it. But the difference with films of the French New Wave period? That barrier was eradicated – cinematic convention was revamped to postmodern playfulness, with direct approaches that pretty much showcased a genuine expression of human life.
Take Godard’s debut motion picture: Breathless. There’s a scene during which the central lovers spend the afternoon in a hotel bedroom, and it runs for 25 minutes. AKA: almost a third of the film.  In our current world where the young often long for fast pace, you’d think that this scene would bore. In my mind, it does the exact opposite. What occurs during those 25 minutes is nothing of severe abstractness – a man and woman simply smoke, talk, flirt and play – but stripping away the complexities of shots, sound effects and so on leaves you – as observer – with one thing: ingenuity. Ingenuity in the sense that for a substantial sector, these characters feel anything but fictional. This man and this woman are anything but actors. They’re just lovers, and the surrounding circumstances of their relationship (which is ill-fated, I tell you) become insignificant.
The film fits into the crime genre, with the ongoing run and chase of criminal Michel awning much of the overarching plot. But for the aforementioned third of the film, I instead find myself breathless from the baring display of human simplicity. There’s an ironic vitality to it, because it’s in a private sphere that we are so honestly exposed. As a filmmaker, for what reason would Godard dedicate his time to over-emphasising moments of melodrama when those are the moments that have been stressed on screen a thousand times before? To do so would be to build that transparent barrier for escapism as opposed to showing something simple and real. Indeed, these are characters of the Hollywood sort: a man forever fleeting from normality and a woman harbouring his hooligan nature. But for a considerable amount of frame-time, this is forgotten. Pure dialogue dominates, pure personality surfaces.
This is the modernity that the French New Wave genre conceived: minimum camerawork, maximum conversation. And when it’s a conversation you can in some way recall having with another – “Leave me alone, I’m thinking” “What about?” “The thing is, I don’t even know” – instead of a barrier, you pass only resonance. That’s the kind of art that I like; I enjoy feeling like there’s no division. And that feeling doesn’t just come from cinema. It extends across forms – art itself, music, fashion, literature. What an artist is to capture is an honest, solidified image of a fleeting moment, or as Baudelaire phrased it: ‘to distil the eternal from the transitory’. I run the risk of pouring out the 10,000 words I composed for my final University dissertation here, which began at that very point. But what I will say is this: for a work of art to hold a place in the annals of history, the intangible concept of human essence must be present.
This essence may sound easily obtainable, but so many in society fall subject to obedience or conformity that it becomes difficult to search for souls who wish to create something that passes the test of time. Souls that view life through a simple lens like Godard. Granted – it’s not an easy perception to acquire. I’m still striving towards such a stance, because for a long time I’ve lived with an invisible stamp of ‘overthinker’ on my forehead. But since I last posted on this website, much has occurred, and much has changed. Instead of being concerned with the surrounding circumstances of melodrama which are commonly and infinitely stressed, one should sometimes try to narrow things down to a simple question in a moment: yes or no? If the answer is no – don’t spend time waiting for your expectations to be met. But if the answer is yes – invest all of your soul and passion into it.
As I have transitioned into adulthood, I’ve found that the greatest sphere that offers such scope for me to achieve a simple outlook – as it has for so many others – is Paris. My favoured films of the French New Wave genre are frequently set in Paris. My favoured musicians – Gainsbourg, Hardy, Dutronc – were born and based in Paris. Some of my favoured novels – though conceived in the minds of Americans – were composed against the backdrop of Paris. And of course, my adoration of the fashion industry is so steeped in French craftsmanship and culture. For what reason do all of these great artists create in this city? Many are born there, yes, but many flock there too. Perhaps it’s the visual landscape – an architectural canvas of beauty thanks to Georges Haussmann’s renovation. But there’s also an indescribable pulse that runs through the streets, a pulse that permeates charm and a desire to express. Maybe my frequent acts of immersion into French-influenced art have rendered me a lost soul in idealised translation. But regardless, when I step onto the streets of Paris, I feel breathless and I feel no barrier. Any trip there feels nothing more than utter tranquility; it’s impossible for me to feel like a tourist in the city because it filters such familiarity. That familiarity is felt through the simple things. I’ll raise a few of them.
Strolling through the Marais and lying on the grass of Places des Vosges to watch the sunset. Hiking up to the bucolic setting of Montmartre which, tourists aside, still feels like a pocket of the past with its roaming painters who continue to honour its artistic history. Venturing along Canal Saint-Martin and its paralleled stream of nestling lovers. Past 10pm, an unforgettable visit to 5 Rue Daunou – Harry’s New York Bar – where saloon-style swinging doors open to reveal locals and expats drinking French 75s to the sounds of charming jazz. Following The Left Bank down to Montparnasse’s longstanding pleasure centre, where decades before, Gertrude Stein and her fellow friends of The Lost Generation socialised and cemented modernity. Much of this simple familiarity is connected to the past, so am I living in it? Obviously not, but it’s difficult to walk through Paris as an aspiring creative and not feel those ghosts in broad daylight. In any age, the role of an artist is not to ignore this history, but respect it through creation that honours its progression to the present. I like to believe that my present perception of Paris – formed from friends I have met there, fashion’s I have discovered there, and feelings formed from there – is simple and clear: it’s the city of light.
The saying is commonly uttered, but it stands in my mind because it is through Paris that I have been most enlightened. I understand that feelings of such are rare to find, almost as rare as finding a romantic being with a synonymous mindset. So what’s the answer? Should I move there? Can life be that simple? If I asked Godard, he would respond with yes. But I have not yet arrived at an answer, because when you’re 21 and still desiring much more knowledge and discovery of the world, this stands at the forefront of your mind.  So for the time being, as I await my approaching graduation, I’ll be closing my curtains, turning off technology, and sticking on a New Wave film. If you’re desiring enlightenment on such a simple art form and the obtainment of that mindset, I suggest you do the same. The list is endless, but here’s my recommendations: Breathless, Hiroshima My Love, My Life to Live, Shoot the Piano Player, Pierrot le Fou, Contempt, Alphaville, Band of Outsiders, The Cousins. All will reward.
Now I display some film photos taken during my recent trip to Paris: simple shots to match the less contemplating mindset I’m striving towards. Here’s to a New Wave.



Toto


“Once upon a time, a king gave a feast. And there came the most beautiful princesses of the realm. Now, a soldier, who was standing guard, saw the king’s daughter go by. She was the most beautiful one, and he immediately fell in love with her. But what could a poor soldier do when it came to the daughter of the king? Well, finally, one day, he managed to meet her, and he told her that he could no longer live without her. The princess was so impressed by his strong feelings that she said to the soldier: “If you can wait 100 days and 100 nights under my balcony, then at the end of it, I shall be yours.” Damn! The soldier immediately went there and waited one day. And two days. And ten. And then twenty. And every evening, the princess looked out of her window, but he never moved. During rain, during wind, during snow, he was always there. The bird shat on his head, and the bees stung him, but he didn’t budge. After ninety nights, he had become all dried up, all white, and the tears streamed from his eyes. He couldn’t hold them back. He no longer had the strength to sleep. All that time, the princess watched him. And on the 99th night, the soldier stood up, took his chair, and went away.”
The above tale is told in a longstanding favourite film of mine: Cinema Paradiso. I first watched it about five years ago – around age 16 – and immediately found it to be one of the purest, faithful depictions of life through the screen. It follows the story of a young Italian child named Toto in Mussolini’s Italy – whose fascination with film and cinematic experiences triggers a lifelong friendship with his local projectionist: Alfredo. The tale is told through a retrospect – exploring Toto’s memories of childhood and adolescence, which together solidify the most faithful ‘coming home’ tale I’ve seen. I’ll avoid describing its intricate details, for they are ones that should not be described but rather watched. But I will say that it’s a film that changes depending on when and how you watch it. My first encounter with it was aged 16, when I was in a somewhat similar position to its central male – Toto – as a child. Young, happily settled in a familiar city but with a desire to move elsewhere and explore. I was also surrounded by a lot of people who wanted to remain settled without venturing further. In such an environment, this place can feel like the centre of the world. That’s not necessarily a bad thing, but if you leave, your entire perception can change. Five years on from first watching this film, I stand in a position similar to Toto again, this time surpassing adolescence. Certain factors arguably still stand for me (youth most obviously), but when I watched this film recently, I saw it differently. It’s astonishing how much one feels they can grow up in such a short period, if there is a transition to a new way of living.
I often talk about experiences in London (this blog only began when I moved here) but I don’t talk often enough about home. That’s most likely because now when I return, it feels a little different. It will always be home, but things, ties and people change. Like Alfredo says in Cinema Paradiso, “You leave: a year, two years. When you come back home, everything’s changed. The thread’s broken.”  You don’t realise how strong that thread is until you leave. But discovering it to be broken isn’t necessarily a bad thing, for it shows you have developed outside a bubble that so many aren’t willing to leave, and that some return to when they don’t enjoy that feeling of the unknown. I’m only 21 now, so this feeling is likely to grow even more depending on where I end up. Right now I’m constrained to feel in tussle a little, because as a student, there’s still some form of hold on your childhood. If you’re like Toto (I definitely am), you want to see as much of the world as possible. Hopefully I will. Why am I talking about this now? Because it’s the festive season, and therefore a sentimental period (we all feel it a little!). So it’s the time to think about what you’ve achieved to this point, and what you’re striving for the following year. I have a few things on my list for 2018.
But back to the story I’ve quoted at the start of this post. It’s recounted by Alfredo as a mode of advice for teen Toto who is falling in love for the first time. At the time he reads it literally, as a result standing outside his desired lover’s window for nights on end. It grabbed my attention from the moment I first watched the film, because there was no explanation of it. ‘He almost had her, so why did he leave?!’ I wondered – sixteen and dreaming and hopeful. But what does it really mean? That question is in part answered in the film when a matured Toto gives Alfredo his interpretation following deep thought. “In one more night, the princess would have been his. But she also could not possibly have kept her promise. And it would have been terrible. He would have died. This way, however, at least for 99 days, he was living under the illusion that she was there, waiting for him.” There’s a level of sympathy for the soldier in this story, but at the same time, it’s ending feels more real. It should be viewed with hope; we’re always growing and there’s always time for more.
I wish you all a wonderful festive season ahead. With that in mind, if there’s a time to watch this film, it’s now more than ever. Sentimentality has peaked, so why not indulge yourself in a faithful depiction of growing up? If you’re around my age, I hope it brings you as much fulfilment as it does me. If you’re younger than me, you’ll view it through the mind of Toto, as you should during that developmental stage in life. Watch it a few years later and it’s likely you’ll see it differently. And if you’re older than me, you’ll probably resonate even more. I’d like to know how it sits at an age elder than mine, so drop me a message if you watch it. If you have any other film recommendations for this time of year, I’d love to know. Here’s to a Merry Christmas and hopeful New Year.
Faye .x

Why is Jacquemus my current favourite designer?


My love affair with Jacquemus has finally been cemented. Back in February, floods of images graced my Instagram feed from Paris Fashion Week, but the catchers of the eye were those grounded by a rose-coloured runway. Upon it – a juxtaposed clothing series of black, white, navy, and the odd injection of pastel pink. An inherent sense of ‘Frenchness’ made its way along the soft-hued river – models were dressed in a neutral palette and exhibited all characteristics that come with the term chic – but it had all been pushed to its boundary. It goes without saying – for Jacquemus, everything has always been a little excessive. But not to the point of deeming it unwearable. Quite the opposite, in fact. That point is becoming further hemmed with each new collection exhibited. So what was it in February that affirmed my growing love? The accessory carried by a selection of the women: le sac rond.


It eclipsed the runway. Quite literally through its shape – ‘the round bag’ is a totally apt title for an accessory that spectates an infinite circle. Join an exaggeratively curved top handle with an interlinking gold chain embellishment – and you have the heartbreaker of all bags. Not to mention the silver-plated brand logo in its bottom right corner, and a fine finishing of suede. It stormed the runway – granted, through the seductive steps of its chosen model – but she was quite clearly loving her new ally. Separation was out of the question. It resembled an extension of her hand – of which, upon seeing, you couldn’t imagine her without. It was paired with some tightly ruffled cropped trousers,  a pastel pink deconstructed jacket and a black cloche hat fitting for The Handmaid’s Tale. All in all – a strikingly surreal silhouette. And through it being so, the look brought with it a solidification of all things charming that defines a woman.
“Join an exaggeratively curved top handle with an interlinking gold chain embellishment – and you have the heartbreaker of all bags”
That claim can be made for all things under the name of Jacquemus, for everything is purely pleasant and welcoming. That is in part down to the clothing and in part down to the designer himself. Simon Porte Jacquemus solidifies his branding through his playful Instagram bio – a capitalised proclamation of his love for ‘blue and white, stripes, sun, fruit, roundness, poetry, Marseille and the 80s’. All of those modes of affection are prominent in his label – but, to the surprise of many, the Provence born 27-year-old is largely self-taught. He started showing his women’s collections back in 2009 at the age of 19, developing the standout identity of Jacquemus (his mother’s maiden name) whilst subsequently working in retail at a Comme des Garçons boutique in Paris. His label is grounded in the admiration of his mother – so it’s only natural that the ever-present themes align with her. What are they? Familial love, friendliness and playfulness, in short. The perception on how a child views things during the innocent stages of life is what you always see in some way – with overblown structures, large geometric shapes and the odd exuberant pattern. And, through the staging of a show, those child-friendly perceptions unveil like a storybook.

It goes without saying: for any designer, a strong visual narrative is key. That achievement is always sustained in Jacquemus’s collections, yet it is done so strongly that it is difficult to distinguish between what you’re seeing: clothes in reality or clothes in wonderland? “I don’t do clothes – I do stories,” Simon says. That is for certain – each season exhibits a fresh dose of womanhood, with inspiration deriving from his provincial, sun-kissed, wholly natural background. Take his latest Spring/Summer collection: “LA BOMBA”. Goodwill pulsed throughout – with golden finished models strutting along the black and white tiled floors of Paris’ famed Picasso Museum. It was the first time the acclaimed artistic landmark has staged a fashion show, and you couldn’t quite blame the halls for waiting, for Jacquemus was worth it. Clothes blended in with the setting – block, earthly-toned mini dresses screamed for the beach and the long for summer. The provincial harvest woman was upon attendees too – a black fitted v-neck and dusty brown wrap skirt were paired with ceramic, shape-based sandals. The implications? Naturalism and charm – both evident odes to the designer’s mother (which I recently compared to Van Gogh’s Girl in White painting for British Vogue). Jacquemus’s ability to breathe art into his clothing equally amounts to his stylish injections of excessiveness.  Skirt hems remained undetermined, rushing up randomly to look purposely lopsided. Hats of the year from his “MARSEILLE JE T’AIME” collection were further amplified – fitting to the narrative of the “LA BOMBA” beauty.
“Jacquemus’s ability to breathe art into his clothing equally amounts to his stylish injections of excessiveness”

And back to what I hailed at the beginning of this post: le sac rond. It comes from Jacquemus’s current Autumn/Winter collection – available to purchase from only a few stores including Dover Street Market, Browns, Matches, and the brands very own online boutique. As an accessory, it fits in with a collection founded on totally fresh Frenchness. Oversized and curved shoulders, tiny corseted waists, slightly flared cropped trousers, ruffled shirts – it was all there and it was all finished in the Parisienne’s colour palette. As for the modern take on his modes of patriotic dressing? A surrender of surrealism. It’s required for staging a story about a woman holding an overwhelming desire for a gypsy, as the designer described. But she will never fully be able to cater herself to the lifestyle, for she parades pure couture. That’s the continual sensibility of the designer’s creations, despite them being ready to wear at a more accessible price.


So to point towards the title of this post: why is Jacquemus my current favourite designer? The answer lies in the consistent characteristic of the woman he so variably portrays: charm. No matter what story she is placed in, her presence always draws one in. For men – it exhibits her as a gracious debonair. Debonair because she holds masculine traits through her impeccable yet excessively tailored clothing. And for women? It’s likely that all females will wish to experience life through her ever-changing-but-ever-charming lens. She enjoys each day with a playful perspective. Wearing the label is like wearing a cinematic mask, one that rejects any form of negativity present in our current times. Aren’t we all desiring that escape occasionally?
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Jane Birkin & Serge Gainsbourg: A Classical Music Love Affair

This piece was written for Herbert Magazine


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